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Dynamic Relations: Photo Journal: Lalibella, Ethiopia

I'm in Paris at the moment. But it's Monday, all the shops are closed, and it's raining. So what better time to update my blog? Here are just a few of the photos I took during the three day trek through Lalibella, Ethiopia.Lalibela, Ethiopia; Google EarthWe arrive in Lalibella, a two-hour flight from Addis. I couldn't be happier to breath clean, fresh air after the dust and smog of Ouagadougou!The airport is at the base of the valley. We took are bus up to Lalibella-proper, 2100km elevation.Our first night accommodations: Tukul Village. Immaculate rooms, phenomenal service, and hot water showers!And the rooms have pretty outstanding views.That afternoon we began a tour of some of the 12th century subterranean, rock-carved churches. From left to right: our guide, Alysha Aziz, Alexei Dunaway, Karen Zasloff, and Sarah Burgess.Carved facade with recently constructed pillars. While many of the churches have not been significantly renovated, many external pillars of the larger churches had to be replaced.We were allowed to tour the interiors as well. Most Ethiopians are Orthodox Christians and follow the Julian calendar. The time of our visit corresponded with their Lent and the churches were occupied by worshippers. Recently constructed chapel.Fertility pool. We were told that if women have difficulty conceiving, they will come to bathe here.Facade of a 12th century chapel. All of these churches and chapels were carved from the top down.From left to right: Nathan Hedges, Alysha Aziz, Sara Rendell, Alexei Dunaway, our guide, and Sarah Burgess.These carved churches survived repeated Muslim invasions. Being at the top of hills and subterranean, the churches weren't visible from the bases of the hills and, thus, weren't sacked. The tourist association of Lalibella has constructed roofs over most of them in order to slow the weathering process.The magnitude of the buildings were impressive.We ended our tour by exiting what was once the original entrance.That evening we ate at the inestimable Ben Abeba restaurant. This restaurant is jointly owned by a Scottish ex-pat and Lalibellan native. The building was designed by two architecture students at the University in Addis Ababa. The concept is centered on movement and openness. Arrive early to enjoy aperitifs on the top floor terraces. When the sun sets and the winds pick up slightly, we moved to the second floor for our meal of delicious Ethiopia njera and sauce (there are several European dishes on the menu as well). We took our digestifs down on the bottom floor around a fire pit overlooking the valley.Photo credit goes to the talented Sarah Burgess.The next morning we planned to hike up to the top of a plateau, at the Lalibella Hudad, to spend our second night. We rented mules and a guide associated with the Hudad to help transport our luggage.Modernity: I love it.Once the luggage was strapped in, we began hiking uphill. [Our guide, Debbe, and Sara Rendell.]And we continued to hike uphill.A much needed break. We climbed 500km in 3 hours.Our mules and luggage beat us. This is the final push, a rock scramble on shaky legs and overworked lungs. Some in our group got a bit of altitude sickness. We were all beat from the hike. But it was worth it. This is main building of the Lalibella Hudad.At the top we were treated to coffee, which, in Ethiopia is delicious and strong. The espressos of Paris don't compare.[Photo credit goes to Sarah Burgess photographing Sara Rendell.]Njera and an assortment of sauces. I miss this food. [Photo credit goes to Sarah Burgess.]Stunning cliffs from the plateau. The accommodations are rustic but very well kept and clean. This is the view from our latrine.A troop of Gelaga baboons call the plateau home. They only eat grass and were extremely habituated to humans, paying us no mind. [Photo credit goes to Sara Rendell.]We tried our hand at making njera, the Ethiopia bread served with every meal. That evening we hung out in the main house around a fire, eating phenomenal food and deep in stimulating conversation.As if the evening couldn't be more incredible, a double rainbow. Brian Klosterboer gazes out. In the morning, we woke early to hike down the mountain in order to catch our flight back to Addis.

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